Hoi An is one of the few places in Vietnam that lets you unwind in nature without traveling too far. A quiet stretch of rice paddies and rivers just outside a UNESCO Old Town, with local specialties like cao lau noodles and quaint farm-to-table kitchens. Thirty-six hours is enough to feel like a holiday and a culture trip at the same time.
I checked into Grand Signature Resort Hoi An by M Village in the late afternoon. The property sits a 5 minute bike ride from the Old Town, offering resort amenities such as three swimming pools, pickleball, a spa, and on-site cultural experiences, all with the tranquility of a hidden retreat. After dropping bags, I went straight to the pool, tucked behind the temple of Silk in the old village quarter, lush gardens on all sides and a much-needed reset after a travel day.
Then a slow walk across the property to Every Half Cafe, one of Vietnam’s most decorated coffee roasters, offering locally grown beans in pour-overs and espresso drinks. This location takes inspiration from distinct Hoi An architecture, with tall wooden beams up to a lofted ceiling, softly lit paper lanterns, and a traditional tile roof.
Dinner that first night was at Chef Trụ Lang’s Mua. A farm-to-table restaurant sitting at the edge of a rice field, with a menu that changes with the season. The spring run opened with fresh rolls of garden greens from Tra Que and toasted seaweed. Next, a bite of cured Cham island fish with strawberry, topped with toasted rice powder.
Followed by betel leaf and squid dumplings. The highlight dish, grilled local duck glazed in Dak Lak cacao and honey, accompanied by a claypot of ST25 rice – an award-winning, fragrant variety developed locally in Vietnam – with seafood and purple mountain yam. Finishing with a silken tofu mousse, muskmelon sorbet, and peanut praline fruit “banh mi”.
The next morning started slowly at the hotel restaurant. Offering a full buffet of Vietnamese and Western fare, but I kept it light with a bowl of chicken pho, fresh tropical fruit, and a Vietnamese iced coffee.
Then, a walk through the resort’s onsite gallery with pieces by renowned artists like Thanh Chuong. Next, Hoi An Silk Village, live exhibits and antique looms that keep the centuries-old weaving traditions of the Cham people alive.
To end my trip, I took a bike from the front desk and rode out through the rice fields toward Tra Que Vegetable Village. The route runs along channels with grazing water buffalo and farmers tending their rice fields—tranquil pockets of green along a palm-lined river, where fishermen cast their lines for catfish.
From Tra Que I rode straight to Quan Cao Lau Thanh for lunch, one of Hoi An’s longest-running cao lau spots, where the same family recipe has been passed down for generations. Thick, golden noodles made from rice soaked in lye water from Cham Island wood ash and served with slices of pork char siu, crisp rice crackers, and fresh herbs from the very fields I’d just ridden through.
The afternoon was for wandering the Old Town. Yellow walls washed by a century of monsoons and buildings home to vendors specializing in tailored clothing, wood carvings, and Vietnamese artisanal goods. Be sure to take breaks between stores for fresh-squeezed juice blends at Lanterns Cafe.
Dinner was at Cơm Gà Bà Buội. Succulent chicken rice with Vietnamese coriander, a small bowl of broth on the side, and the chili-lime dipping sauce. I also had the gỏi gà, a bright shredded chicken salad tossed with thinly sliced onion, shredded carrot, rau răm, and a tangy lime dressing, the same flavors as the rice but lighter and fresher.
After dinner, hundreds of silk lanterns lit along Bach Dang Street, the river full of small wooden boats. I bought a candle in a paper lotus, sent it down the Thu Bon, and took a short boat ride under the bridges. Ending the night on a plastic stool with a bowl of tau hu, silken tofu in warm ginger syrup, from a woman who has been working the same corner for years. A few days in Hoi An is enough to leave you refreshed, and reconnected to both nature and culture.
The Stops
Grand Signature Resort Hoi An by M Village. 27–28 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Cam Ha, Hoi An. A heritage-village-style resort set among gardens and mulberry groves, a few minutes from the Old Town; bikes available at the front desk.
Everyhalf Coffee. Inside Grand Signature Resort. Pour-overs and espresso drinks using local beans; open to outside guests as well.
Mua Hoi An. On the edge of the rice paddies outside the Old Town. A seasonal tasting menu; reservations recommended, especially at sunset. Cab or car from the resort.
Tra Que Vegetable Village. Cam Ha, Hoi An. Best by bicycle; ride the irrigation paths and stop at a farm for fresh herbs.
Quan Cao Lau Thanh. Thai Phien Street, Old Town. Cao lau done right; walk in, cash only.
Old Town wandering. Around the Japanese Covered Bridge, Tran Phu, and Nguyen Thai Hoc. The Tan Ky merchant house is worth a stop.
Com Ga Ba Buoi. Phan Chu Trinh Street, Old Town. Hoi An’s classic chicken rice; walk in, cash only.
Bach Dang Street and the night boats. Along the Thu Bon River, Old Town. Lanterns come on around 6:30. Small wooden boats and paper-lotus candles available all along the riverfront.
