It’s no secret that New York City is becoming a Vietnamese food destination, with over a dozen new high-profile Vietnamese restaurants opening in the last few years. From artisan bánh mì counters to regional Northern Vietnamese specialties rarely seen outside the country, the city’s understanding of Vietnamese cuisine has expanded far beyond phở and summer rolls. What was once niche is now part of New York’s broader fine-casual and chef-driven dining conversation.
Some may be surprised to learn, however, that one of the city’s most compelling Vietnamese restaurants is owned not by a Vietnamese chef, but by a Thai restaurateur. At La Đồng in Union Square, the cooking is rooted in Vietnamese flavors and techniques, but shaped by an outsider’s deep, studied devotion to the cuisine—one built on travel, collaboration, and an almost academic respect for tradition.
Opened in 2024, the restaurant is led in the kitchen by chef Pithayakorn Panapoi and owned by Jaruwijit Jaruthiphayakhantha and Hathaichanog Setasathien, whose earlier projects include the Thai restaurants Thai Villa and Pranakhon.
Rather than leaning into fusion or novelty, the team approaches Vietnamese food with precision and restraint, spotlighting ambitious yet comforting dishes like chạo tôm (sugarcane shrimp), bánh xèo, rau muống xào tỏi, and deeply aromatic bowls of bún bò Huế.
The result is a restaurant that feels unmistakably Vietnamese in spirit, even as it reflects New York’s increasingly fluid, cross-cultural dining landscape—where authenticity isn’t about who you are, but how you choose to cook.
This attention to detail earned the restaurant a highly coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand in late 2025. Esquire Vietnam caught up with co-owner Jaruwijit to learn more about the story behind La Đồng.
Esquire Vietnam: You’re Thai, but La Đồng is a Vietnamese restaurant. Why did you want to open a Vietnamese restaurant in New York?
JARUWIJIT JARUTHIPHAYAKHANTHA: I’m Thai by nationality, but I’ve always believed that food doesn’t belong to borders; it belongs to people. Vietnamese food has always moved me because of its balance, restraint, and soul. It’s thoughtful without being loud, comforting without being heavy.
When I lived in New York, I felt that Vietnamese cuisine was still misunderstood and often simplified into just a few dishes. La Đồng was my way of showing respect to a culture I deeply admire, and of telling its story through care, technique, and intention. I didn’t open La Đồng as a Vietnamese person, but for Vietnamese food.
What was it like to reach the one-year mark with La Đồng?
Reaching one year felt very emotional. In New York, surviving the first year already feels like a miracle. For me, it wasn’t just about business, but about trust—trust from guests, from my team, from the community. I remember thinking, “People are coming back, not just once, but again and again.” That meant everything. It reminded me that if you cook with honesty and treat people with respect, they feel it.
La Đồng recently received a Michelin Bib Gourmand in New York City. How did you find out, and what did that recognition feel like?
My team and I found out very quietly, without a big moment. But the feeling stayed with me for a long time. I felt grateful more than proud. The Bib Gourmand recognizes value and consistency, and that’s exactly what we try to do every day. All the credit truly goes to the team.
What similarities do you see between Vietnamese and Thai food or culture?
Both cultures value balance—not only in flavor, but in life: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami. In both cuisines, herbs are not decoration; they’re essential. Meals are meant to be shared. I’ve always believed that cultures travel along the river. The Mekong flows through us, through our food, our friendships, and the way we live.
Have you been to Vietnam, and how did that experience influence La Đồng?
Yes, and I approached it like a student, not an owner. I ate everywhere—from small street stalls to family kitchens—listening more than speaking. I paid attention to rhythm: how people eat, when they eat, how they sit together. Before opening La Đồng, I read, traveled, and spoke with Vietnamese cooks and friends, always asking myself one question: am I honoring this culture, or just borrowing from it? That question still guides me every day.
What Vietnamese and Thai restaurants in NYC do you personally love?
For Vietnamese food, I really respect places that stay true while still evolving, like Mắm and Bánh Anh Em. For Thai food, I love Ugly Baby, Pranakhon, and Thai Diner. They’re fearless and honest, and they cook with identity.
When someone visits La Đồng for the first time, what should they order?
I usually suggest starting with dishes that show our philosophy—comfort with intention. Chạo tôm, our bánh xèo, and rau muống are great places to begin. For mains, bún bò Huế, A5 Wagyu phở, and bún chả Hà Nội really show the range of what we do. These dishes also pair beautifully with our curated wine list and cocktails.
What’s your own go-to order at La Đồng?
I can eat rau muống every day with rice. But the dish that resonates with me most is bún bò Huế with ớt sa tế and lots of bird’s-eye chili.
What are your food predictions for 2026 in NYC?
I think New York is moving toward sincerity. Fewer concepts chasing trends, and more restaurants cooking from memory and meaning. Yes, there will be more Vietnamese restaurants, but more importantly, deeper Vietnamese restaurants—not louder or trendier, just more confident in their roots. That’s a beautiful thing.
Images courtesy of La Dong
